We’re In!

Before landing in Kyrghistan nearly a month ago, Central Asia (aka “the Stans”) was a black hole in our world knowledge.

Turkmenistan was the black hole in the black hole.Visited by only an estimated 10,000 foreigners a year, this, of course, made the country totally irresistible.

We now have full-page visas in our passports to prove we are two of the 10,000.

We crossed the border from Uzbekistan after two hours of immigration theater that was equal parts bureaucracy and shakedown for US dollars. Easy peasy.

First brief impressions (because we have internet only briefly):

#1 – It’s not North Korea. We got in, and our Turkmen guide got out to attend college in Wyoming for two years. The rest of the story will have to await another country, but these alone are signs we are not in North Korea.

#2 – It’s ancient. This is the first place in the Stans where we have seen much of anything that predates Genghis Khan and Tamerlane, who pretty much wiped the landscape clean. In Merve, we wandered among ruins contemporary with ancient Egypt.

#3 – It’s not visibly religious. Our drivers have prayed along the way, but women aren’t covered, and the country brews cognac, among other heady beverages. There was a full bar at breakfast in our hotel yesterday. Enough said.

#4 — Its architectural vision is even grander than Tajikistan’s. The capital is called the White City because every building in Ashbagat is clad in white marble. Black cars are outlawed because they would spoil the effect. Enough said again.

#5 — They are home to the most beautiful horses we’ve ever lain our eyes (or settled our butts) on. The Akhal-Teke found only in Turkemistan is is known as the “golden horse” because its coat is a color like no other. We were gobsmacked by them.

Last first impression: The Turkmens, so far, are the friendliest people we’ve encountered on the whole trip.

We have never felt unwelcome anywhere, but the Turkmens are so delighted to greet and speak English to us they make us feel like the tourist attractions. Who knows? Given our numbers, maybe we are?